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Sunday, December 22, 2013

How the bubbles get into that bottle of Champagne


Welcome to bottle2glass a blog about what I love...... Wine

Champagne is not only for that special occasion! It can be enjoyed for everyday accomplishments; you name it and I am sure it deserves a glass or two of Champagne. Why not open a bottle and enjoy before dinner with friends. I am guessing it is the price that is making you open it only for that "Special Occasion or Celebration".  Like a new birth, 30 years of marriage, or winning the Grand Prix!! Well Technically at the Grand Prix they get sprayed with the champagne... what a waste of a fine beverage!!

Champagne can only come from the region in France with the same name. It must be produced using the "traditional method" (Méthose Champenoise) from which the bubbles occur. There are eight varietals that are permitted in the production of this wine. The most common varietals that are used are Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. All grapes will be harvested by hand so they will not be damaged before they are pressed. Once harvested they are rushed to the press.

Here is what it takes to make a bottle of Champagne. So the next time you open that bottle you will be able to reflect on how they got those tiny fine bubbles into that fine glass of Champagne.

Pressing -  As soon as the grapes are brought into the pressing room they will be pressed. A basket press will often be used of which will extract the juice slowly. Two pressings will take place with the first called "Cuvee" which is considered high quality juice. The second is called the "taillies (or tails)  which is of a lesser quality. To confuse things more there are regulations to the volume of juice from each pressing that can be included in the final product. Here is an example, if 100 hectoliters of Champagne was to be produced, the regulations state that 80 hectoliters would need to be "cuvee” press and 20 hectoliters would need to be "tailles" or from the second press.

First Fermentation – This fermentation is key, since it is quick and warm. The idea is to produce a neutral wine that is high in acidity. A neutral wine could interfere with the flavor and autolytic development that will occur mostly in the secondary fermentation and ageing process. The high acidity will give it acidic structure to engage the second fermentation and extend the lees.  The first fermentation usually takes place in large temperature controlled stainless steel vats.

Blending (assemblage) – This is what sets Champagne apart from other wine producing regions. This process is an art in itself where the blender wants to achieve consistency in the wine they produce. Put his signature on the style of the champagne. To help achieve consistency each year a proportion of the production may be stored as a reserve wine for use in future blends. So maintaining a stock of wine to blend can add to the cost of the bottle. As they need to hold back some of what they produce. If “vintage” is stated on the bottle of Champagne, 100 percent of the base wine has to come from that year. (The date will usually be stamped into the bottle)

Did I lose you yet? Well hang in there we still have few steps.

Second Fermentation – Now that the “champagne house” has completed the blend. It is now time for a small proportion of sugar, yeast and a clarifying agent (also known as liqueur de triage) to be added. This will get the second fermentation and the bubbles started.  The bottle is then closed with a temporary seal, which is usually a crown cork. (Looks like a beer bottle cap). The bottles are then laid horizontally in stacks to rest. During this time the yeast works on the sugar which creates the following – second fermentation, alcohol, and CO2 . As the wine ferments the gas is unable to escape and will dissolve into the wine creating BUBBLES!

Lees Aging – Simply put this is where the wine begins aging in the bottle. The wine interacts with the dead yeast cells (lees) and this will contribute to the wines flavor.  Usually the flavor characteristics you find in Champagne like yeast, toast, biscuit, bread  and roasted nuts.  This process lasts between four to five years or even longer. The longer the wine spends on its lees the finer the quality. Non-vintage Champagne has to be a minimum of 15 months and vintage Champagne at least three years. This is the law!

Riddling - This process involves moving the bottle from the horizontal position to vertical (upside-down). This process is also known as ‘remuage”. This will help get all the deposits to the neck. This is all done over time and slowly so the champagne is not disrupted.  This process can be done in one of two ways by hand or by machine. By hand it will take several months and can be expensive. The most popular and commonly used process is by machine (gyro palette).  Once all the bottles are standing on there necks the wine ages for a while longer. Also known as sur pointe.

Disgorgement – Now that the wine has rested and the sediment is on the inside of the crown cork. It is now time to remove the sediment and the dead yeast. The necks are dipped in a brine solution to freeze the sediment and dead yeast. The crown cap is removed at which time the plug is ejected with the sediment, dead yeast and a small amount of wine. This is a fast process and is usually done by automation.

Dosage – This is where the wine that was lost during disgorgement is topped up with a cane sugar solution, known as liqueur d’expedition.  The amount used will determine the sweetness level. Also known as “dosage”.  Here is a list of how some Champagne’s can be finished: 
Brut Nature/Brut Zero = bone dry (most sparkling wines are naturally very dry); Extra Brut = Very dry; Brut = very dry - dry; Extra-Sec/Extra Dry = off-dry to medium-dry; Sec/Trocken = medium to dry; 
Demi-Sec/Semi-Dulce = Sweet; Doux/Sweet = Luscious

Re-Corking  - Believe it or not we are almost at the end! Now that the dosage is complete it is time to add the final touches. The cork is added with a wire “muzzle” to secure the cork.  Depending on the producer the wine will either sit a few months (or years) to allow the liqueur d’expediton to blend into the wine. Some producers will give the wine a vigorous shake to blend the liqueur d’expedition and then rest the wine for a few weeks or months. FINALLY the bottle is dressed with the foil around the neck and shipped to a shop near you!

Now that you have an idea of what has to go into making a bottle of Champagne! The next time you pick up a bottle hopefully the sticker shock will not be as bad. 

Here is a list of some Champagne and Sparkling wines I have had the pleasure to enjoy!
The three I have listed below are made by using the traditional method (Méthose Champenoise).

Pol Roger – Champagne Brut 1999

This was one fine Champagne! Nose – Popcorn, burnt toast, butter and yeast; Palate – some stone fruit, little smoke, toast with a nice smooth finish with very fine bubbles! The sign of a great wine.
This can most likely be found at a BCLS (BC Liquor Store). The price on this one is steep at $95.00. Worth the price as long as you are not going to spray it at someone for winning a race!
France, Champagne Pol Roger Brut 1996- 75cl


Segura Viudas - Heredad Brut Reserve

I reviewed this Cava back in November 2012. In Spain they use the following grapes Macabeu, Parellada, and Xarel-lo. Some producers are also now using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This wine is very good and a reasonably priced wine. You may be able to find it at most BCLS for $33.99. 





Paul Zinck Cremant d'Alsace

Here is another example of a Sparkling wine made in the "Traditional Method" without the high price. In making the Cremant d'Aslace the following grape varietals are permitted - Rielsing, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc Pinot Noir and Auxerrois (this grape is grown extensively in Alsace). Nose - pear with citrus (lemon and grapefruit) and a hint of apple; Palate - biscuit, pear, citrus with fine bubbles. Another good Sparkling wine made in the "traditional Method" for $23.99. Check out the BCLS web site to find a store that carries this one.

I listed  bottles of Sparkling wine and Champagnes I have tried above. The list does not stop here as there are many other options for sparkling wine; Prosecco is an affordable option. Here is one you can try Ogio Prosecco which can be found at Marquis Wines; German Sekt can be an easy drinking choice. If your stuck give BC Sparkling wine a try. Blue Mountain Brut Gold Label I have tried this one over the summer at the winery. This one may be found in a private store or order from the winery.

If you find a Sparkling wine or Champagne that you enjoyed leave me a note I love trying WINE!

Ciao for now!





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